Canberra style authority Adam Moore, once dubbed Australia’s most dapper man by menswear retailer Peter Jackson, believes a well-fitting suit does more for you than anything else in your wardrobe. Here, he shares his six essential tailoring tips.
1. Shoulder fit is critical
When trying on, be sure to check the fit through your shoulders. Shoulder seams should sit just at the point where your shoulder and upper arm meet. To check, feel for the soft spot just beneath your shoulder bone. Jacket shoulders should lay nicely flat when worn, with no lumps or bumps visible in the fabric (the same goes for the fabric between your shoulder blades).
2. Check the cuffs
Jacket sleeves, meanwhile, should finish one or two centimetres above the wrist bone (shirt cuffs a little lower). If you can’t curl your fingers under the jacket sleeve’s cuff, chances are it’s too long or too short.
3. Customisation is king
Whether you’re wearing a casual blazer, a formal suit or a simple pair of jeans, a great fit always adds extra polish to your look. Get to know your body shape and don’t be afraid to have newly purchased key pieces altered or tailored for that ‘just right’ fit – especially suits and jackets that you intend to get some mileage from. A tailored fit always turns heads.
4. Beware black
Unless you want to look like a limo driver, my advice is to avoid black suits. Contrary to popular belief, they’re nowhere near as versatile as you might think. Charcoal, taupe and navy tones provide more versatility and can be easily dressed up or down.
5. Dress down right
I love a plain coloured t-shirt, in either a crew or V-neck. One simple rule: the longer your neck, the more suited you’ll be to a crew neck. Short neck or low jowls? Add length with a V-neck tee. Quality T-shirts in a few different colours provide a basis for a range of looks and can be paired with a smart blazer for a more sophisticated look than with jeans.
6. Do sweat the small stuff
If you’re looking to update your look, pay attention to the details. A simple touch like adding a pocket square to your suit jacket will really elevate your style. Clean, well-kept shoes is another touch that men often neglect, but it’s something that other people really notice.
Find out more about the style mistakes to avoid and menswear trends to watch at our 90-minute Tech and Tailoring masterclass on 19 June.
Shop contemporary suiting now at M.J. Bale, Hugo Boss, Saba, Peter Jackson, Roger David and David Jones.